Showing posts with label budapest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label budapest. Show all posts

Monday, June 16, 2014

10 DAYS IN HUNGARY - DAY 2 TOO MUCH TO TELL - by North Carolina Artist, Sue Scoggins

Jo(yo) napot!
I know I said I would post on Sundays but there is just too much to tell.

Let me begin with NEVER-LEST TRAVEL TIP # 2.  Never eat an entire bowl of Hungarian cherries lest you break out in little red blisters on the rims of your eyes and inside your nose and throat.  Ouch!

Today, Pat, Julie's husband was our tour guide.  We met some friends from a Viking River Boat Cruise around 9:00. Pat's goal was to re enact "trains, planes, and automobiles" by giving us extensive training on buses, trams, and subways.  We saw the most marvelous architecture in the Opera, Liszt Academy Concert Center, Dohany Street Grand Jewish Synagogue,  and Matthias Chapel. We walked through the most extravagant coffee houses I've ever seen and finished it off with a bowl Hungarian goulash and a Menza beer for lunch under an umbrella in Franz Liszt park.  Truly unbelievable beauty and workmanship has filled my brain.

There were two highlights.  First, after touring the Grand Jewish Synagogue, I went into the back courtyard which was a memory cemetery. This Synagogue stands in the Jewish Ghettos where many Jews died of hunger and cold during WWII.  There, stood a beautiful sculpture, commissioned by Tony Curtis, an American actor who was a Hungarian Jew.  Over 400.000 Hungarian Jews were murdered by the Nazis. Each leaf of this willow tree had inscribed the name of some of the victims. As I was studying the sculpture, a group of people (tourists) gathered around and broke out in Hebrew song.

Second highlight, the most endearing part of the day, was when I was on the bus headed back down  the cobblestone road from Buda into the city of Pest. (pronounced Pesh)  The road was particularly curvy and there was no slowing down on the curves.  Thinking I'm invincible, I decided not to sit.  My standing became the ultimate "hang on for dear life to a vertical green bar" challenge.  On curves, I found myself grabbing the handle bar on the door too.  When stopped, this beautiful elderly Hungarian woman carefully got up from her chair, tapped me on the arm and cautioned me not to hold onto the door because it would swing open.  (At least that's what I think she was saying.)  She staggered back to her seat and I said, kuszanam, smiled and placed both my hands on the vertical bar.  After the next curb, she got up again, pleading with me to sit.  "Please, please." in English.  So I sat with her and we became best friends.

Clearly, she was worried that I would fall out that door into the street.  As we tried to understand each other we laughed at our communications skills. As we started up again, she pointed out every building and I'd say, "beautiful, beautiful." And as we passed Szent István-bazilika , she held out the cross from her neck and said, "Catolic. Hungarian Catolic."  I smiled and tapped my heart.  I wish I had asked her name.  I would have followed her around like an excited puppy dog if I could have.  She asked if I was English.  I said "yes". Then I corrected myself and said, "No.  I'm American."  She said, "I've been there.  Babysit."  I could have "talked" for hours.  But, she then got off at her stop and said, "bye. bye."

Matthias Chapel

Grand Synogogue

Franz Liszt

Hungarian Goolash

Not your ordinary coffee shop

Opera

Willow Tree


Sunday, June 15, 2014

10 DAYS IN HUNGARY - Day 1 BUDAPEST - by North Carolina Artist, Sue Scoggins






Made it fine to Budapest. Oh, did I tell you I was going to Budapest? It's the first place I've landed in this second act.  Julie and Pat, friends from the past, are fabulous hosts and have chosen to live a very simple lifestyle here in Hungary.  No TV. No cell phone. No car. They've scaled down their life to the bare minimum. (I was glad she at least had band aides, for my blisters.  NEVER-LEST TRAVEL TIP #1.  Never wear new shoes, no matter how comfortable you THINK they may be lest you end up  with stinging blisters on your heals.)  Julie is a walking history book of Eastern European culture and she will amaze you with human interest and humor.  Check out her award winning blog http://theworldinbetween.com. It just reminds me of how little I know.

The Hungarian people are humble and grateful and have very little.  Yet they seem happy and delighted when you try to speak their language.  Jo (pronouced YO...like, YO baby)  napot kivana (good day) …kuszinam (thank you). Via slat - goodby.  Can’t keep it straight…I keep saying curacau, keilbasa, cocomo, it’s beginning to get hysterical!  Most speak English because these Eastern European countries are so small and close together..you have Hungary, Romania, Slovacia, Czeck Republic, Ukraine..all different languages. So many of the people use English as a common language.

We went to a little restaurant last night, Brios Kaveso. Around here the wait staff will not disturb you unless they are summoned and once you have your table, it is yours for the night. No rushing to get another customer in. Your time is their provision for you whether you order a meal or just a cup of coffee.  It would never occur to them that you might be in a hurry.  Gratuity is 10% but they are grateful for any little bit they get.  Any more would be in appropriate and look like "the rich American".  Menu: roasted duck on greens, glass of wine and coffee all for about $8.

The Danube, with all it's biking trails along the edge and its riverboat cruises, is right outside Julie’s apartment. The coffee shop is right around the corner.

Tonight's dinner was at one of their favorite restaurants with friends. GOOSE and cabbage...Hungarian food. The last I saw a goose was in my neighborhood...momma and daddy and all their little goslings hobbling across my street.  Poor little fella.  Tonight's goose was on my plate.

No painting for a few days.  Too much to see and do and think about.